The foundation of knightly attire: braies and the chemise
When we picture a Knight Templar, our minds conjure images of chainmail, a gleaming great helm, and the iconic white surcoat emblazoned with a red cross. We see the symbols of power, piety, and martial prowess. But beneath these formidable layers, hidden from view, lay the true foundation of a knight’s daily life and combat effectiveness: his undergarments. These were not mere afterthoughts but a sophisticated system designed for comfort, hygiene, and protection, with the humble linen fabric as its undisputed champion.
The first and most essential pieces of this system were the braies and the chemise. These garments formed the base layer worn directly against the skin, serving as the barrier between the man and his more expensive, harder-to-clean outer clothing. For a military order like the Knights Templar, who spent long periods on campaign in the unforgiving climate of the Holy Land, these simple linen items were as vital as a sharp sword.
Braies were the medieval equivalent of trousers or shorts, crafted from lightweight linen. Their design was elegantly simple and highly functional. Essentially loose-fitting drawers, they could range in length from upper-thigh to the ankle, depending on the period and local fashion. Early medieval styles were often long and baggy, gathered at the ankle, while later versions became shorter and more fitted as the outer leg coverings, or chausses, rose higher. They were held up not by complex belts or buttons, but by a simple drawstring woven through the waistband or by a separate belt worn through loops. This adjustability was crucial for comfort during long days in the saddle or strenuous activity on foot.
The primary function of the braies was hygiene. They absorbed sweat and body oils, protecting the more valuable woollen outer trousers from becoming soiled. Linen, being highly absorbent and quick-drying, was the perfect material for this. A knight might only have one or two pairs of expensive wool trousers, but he could carry several pairs of linen braies that could be easily washed in a stream and dried in the sun, ensuring a degree of cleanliness even on a long campaign.
Worn on the upper body, directly against the skin, was the chemise. Also known as a smock or cotte, this was a simple, T-shaped tunic, usually reaching to the mid-thigh or knee. Like the braies, it was almost exclusively made of linen. Its purpose was identical: to protect the outer tunic (the bliaut or cotehardie) from sweat and grime. By absorbing moisture, the chemise kept the wearer cooler in the heat and warmer in the cold, a vital form of temperature regulation under heavy layers. For a knight, the chemise was the first line of defense against the constant, abrasive rubbing of a padded gambeson or the harsh bite of chainmail links. It prevented chafing and sores, which, if left untreated, could easily become infected and incapacitate a warrior. In the context of the Templar Order, the unadorned, white linen chemise also held symbolic weight. It reflected the vows of poverty and chastity, a simple, pure garment worn close to the heart, a constant reminder of the spiritual purity they sought beneath their warrior exterior.
Building the layers: chausses and the padded aketon
With the foundational linen layers of braies and chemise in place, the knight began to build the complex structure of his attire. The next stage involved garments that bridged the gap between personal clothing and functional armor. These were the chausses and the aketon, pieces that provided warmth, structure, and the critical padding necessary to make wearing armor bearable and effective.
Chausses, also known as hose, were the knight’s leg coverings. They were not trousers in the modern sense but two separate stockings, each tailored to a single leg. In the 12th and 13th centuries, the heyday of the Templar Order, these were typically made of wool, often cut on the bias to provide a surprising amount of stretch for a snug fit. While the wealthiest nobles might wear brightly dyed chausses as a fashion statement, a pragmatic Templar knight would have worn functional, undyed hose. They were pulled up over the lower part of the braies and secured by being tied directly to the braies’ belt or drawstring with leather or cloth points. This system allowed for excellent freedom of movement, crucial for mounting a horse or fighting on foot.
Beneath the wool chausses, a knight might wear an additional layer of linen hose for comfort and to absorb sweat, further protecting the wool. More importantly, when preparing for battle, he would don padded chausses, or wear quilted leg defenses over his hose. These provided the first layer of shock absorption against blows to the legs before the maille chausses (chainmail leggings) were pulled on over them. Every layer served a purpose, distributing the force of an impact and preventing the metal armor from cutting into the flesh.
Perhaps the single most important garment a knight wore under his mail, however, was the aketon. Also called a gambeson or arming coat, this was a heavily padded jacket that was a form of armor in its own right. Its importance cannot be overstated. Chainmail is excellent at stopping a cutting or slashing attack, but it offers little protection against the blunt force trauma of a mace, hammer, or even a powerful sword blow. A strike that didn’t break the mail links could still easily break bones, rupture organs, and incapacitate a man. The aketon was the solution.
Constructed from multiple layers of durable fabric like linen or heavy canvas, the aketon was stuffed with padding such as raw wool, cotton, scrap cloth, or even horsehair. These layers were then stitched or quilted together in vertical or diamond patterns, which kept the padding evenly distributed and prevented it from clumping. The result was a thick, dense jacket that could absorb and spread the kinetic energy of a blow, turning a potentially lethal impact into a survivable, albeit painful, bruise. It extended from the neck to the mid-thigh and had long sleeves, protecting the entire torso and arms. Worn directly over the chemise, it was the final, critical buffer between the knight’s body and his heavy hauberk of mail. The aketon also made the mail more comfortable to wear, distributing its significant weight (often upwards of 30 pounds) more evenly across the shoulders and body.
The unsung hero: why linen was the fabric of choice
Throughout the layers of a knight’s attire, one material stands out for its ubiquitous and essential role: linen. While wool provided warmth and padding, and silk denoted status, linen was the true workhorse fabric of the medieval world. For a knight, particularly a Templar serving in the hot, arid conditions of the Near East, linen was nothing short of a miracle fiber. Its unique properties made it the ideal choice for any garment worn close to the skin.
Linen is derived from the fibers of the flax plant, a crop that was widely cultivated across Europe and the Middle East. The process of turning flax into thread—retting, scutching, and spinning—was laborious but resulted in a fabric with unparalleled qualities. First and foremost was its incredible strength and durability. Linen fibers are significantly stronger than cotton, meaning garments made from them could withstand the immense strain of life on campaign. They resisted tearing and abrasion and could endure countless harsh washings with lye soap and beating against rocks—the standard laundering method of the age.
Its second, and perhaps most vital, property was its absorbency. Linen can absorb up to 20% of its weight in moisture before feeling damp. Under layers of padding and 30-50 pounds of mail and plate, a knight would sweat profusely, regardless of the climate. A linen chemise and braies would wick this sweat away from the skin, keeping the knight cooler and drier. Unlike wool, which becomes heavy and loses its insulating properties when soaked, linen remains breathable. This moisture-wicking ability was crucial for preventing heat exhaustion during a battle under the Levantine sun.
Furthermore, linen possesses natural hygienic qualities. It dries much faster than other natural fibers and has inherent anti-bacterial properties. In an era before modern medicine, preventing infection was a matter of life and death. By keeping the skin dry and clean, linen undergarments helped prevent the painful chafing, heat rashes, and fungal infections that could plague an army and sideline a warrior as effectively as any enemy sword. The fabric also becomes softer and more comfortable with every wash, molding to the wearer’s body over time.
From a symbolic perspective, the fabric resonated deeply with the Templar ethos. The whiteness of undyed linen was a powerful symbol of purity and moral cleanliness. For a monastic order of knights, the clean, white linen worn next to the skin was a physical manifestation of their spiritual vows. It was a humble, unpretentious material, befitting their vow of poverty, yet its inherent strength and purity mirrored the ideal of the Templar Knight himself: strong in body, pure in spirit, and dedicated to his sacred cause. The legend of the Templar is not just in the steel he wore, but in every stitch of the humble linen that made his life possible.
knighttemplar
