Forging history: a guide to creating Crusader cloisonné enamel pins

The enduring legacy of the Crusader cross in modern adornment

Symbols possess a unique power. They are a visual shorthand for complex ideas, shared histories, and profound beliefs. Few symbols carry the weight, controversy, and enduring recognition of the Crusader cross. For centuries, it has represented faith, chivalry, and martial prowess. Today, enthusiasts of history and members of modern chivalric orders seek ways to connect with this legacy, not through conquest, but through commemoration. A custom-made enamel pin offers a subtle yet powerful way to carry this piece of history, and no method is more fitting for this task than the ancient and beautiful art of cloisonné.

This isn’t about creating a simple, mass-produced piece of metal. It’s about crafting an artifact. Cloisonné, with its vibrant, glass-fused colors and jewelry-quality finish, mirrors the precious reliquaries and stained-glass windows of the medieval era. It elevates a simple pin into a personal emblem. In this guide, we will delve into the rich history connecting enamelwork and heraldry, demystify the meticulous cloisonné process, and walk you through the steps of designing and commissioning a Crusader pin that is not just an accessory, but a testament to a timeless code.

A brief history of enamel and heraldry: more than just decoration

To truly appreciate a Crusader cloisonné pin, we must first understand its historical roots. The art of enameling is ancient, with early examples found in Mycenaean Greece. However, it was during the Byzantine Empire and the subsequent European Middle Ages that cloisonné and its cousin, champlevé, reached their zenith. This was the era of the Crusades, a time when art was intrinsically linked with faith and power. Cathedrals were adorned with glowing stained glass, and sacred texts were illuminated with gold leaf. Enamelwork was the perfect medium to create miniature versions of this splendor, used to decorate chalices, crosses, and reliquary caskets.

Simultaneously, the battlefield demanded a new visual language. With knights encased head-to-toe in steel, identifying friend from foe became a matter of life and death. This gave rise to the rigorous science of heraldry. Bold, simple geometric shapes and stylized animals (known as charges) were painted on shields and banners. The Crusader cross, in its many variations, was one of the earliest and most significant heraldic devices. It wasn’t just decoration; it was an immediate declaration of identity, allegiance, and purpose.

The medieval pin, or brooch, was both functional and symbolic. It fastened a heavy woolen cloak and displayed one’s status or affiliation. A knight returning from the Holy Land might have worn a pilgrim’s badge or a symbol of his order. Creating a cloisonné pin today is a direct echo of this tradition, using a refined artistic technique from the same period to display a powerful heraldic symbol.

What is cloisonné? The art of cells and glass

The term ‘enamel pin’ has become a catch-all for various styles, but true cloisonné stands in a class of its own. Its name comes from the French word cloison, meaning “partition” or “cell.” This perfectly describes the technique, which is a meticulous, multi-step process that has remained largely unchanged for over a thousand years.

The core of the process involves:

  • Creating a design outline on a metal base, typically copper or brass.
  • Bending thin metal wires to match this outline and affixing them to the base, creating the ‘cloisons’ or cells.
  • Filling these cells with a paste made from finely ground glass powder mixed with coloring agents and water.
  • Firing the piece in a kiln at a very high temperature (around 800°C / 1500°F). The glass powder melts, fuses to the metal, and becomes a solid, vibrant layer of color.
  • Grinding and polishing the surface until it is perfectly smooth and level with the top of the metal wires, resulting in a lustrous, gem-like finish.

To understand its superiority for a historical project, it’s helpful to compare it to more common modern pin types:

  • Hard enamel (or epola): Often mistaken for cloisonné, hard enamel uses a synthetic resin or epoxy instead of glass. It is also polished flat, creating a smooth, high-quality finish. It’s a durable and beautiful modern alternative, but it lacks the historical authenticity and luminous depth of true glass enamel.
  • Soft enamel: In this process, a liquid enamel paint is applied to the recessed areas of a stamped metal base. It is then baked to harden but not polished flat. This leaves the metal outlines raised above the colored sections, creating a textured, dimensional feel. It is generally the most affordable option but lacks the premium finish of its counterparts.

For a Crusader pin, an object meant to evoke history and quality, cloisonné is the ultimate choice. Its ancient lineage and the use of genuine glass create a piece that feels less like a modern novelty and more like a discovered treasure.

Designing your custom Crusader cloisonné pin: from concept to blueprint

The design phase is where your vision takes shape. A successful cloisonné pin relies on a design that is both symbolically meaningful and technically sound. Here’s how to approach it.

Choosing your symbolism: beyond the basic cross

While the classic red Cross pattée of the Knights Templar is a powerful choice, the world of Crusader-era heraldry is vast and rich. Consider exploring other historical symbols to make your pin unique:

  • The Jerusalem cross: A large central cross surrounded by four smaller Greek crosses. It symbolizes the five wounds of Christ and the spread of the gospel from Jerusalem to the four corners of the world.
  • The Maltese cross: With its eight points representing the eight chivalric virtues, this cross is strongly associated with the Knights Hospitaller.
  • The cross of the Holy Sepulchre: A potent symbol for pilgrims and Crusader orders dedicated to protecting the holy sites.
  • Heraldic beasts: A rampant lion (symbolizing courage), a griffin (vigilance and strength), or an eagle (nobility and power) can be combined with a cross for a more personal coat of arms.
  • Mottos: A short Latin phrase like “Non nobis, Domine, non nobis” or “Deus vult” can be incorporated into the design, though fine lettering can be challenging for cloisonné.

Decide whether you are aiming for strict historical reenactment, in which case accuracy is paramount, or personal expression inspired by history.

The crucial role of color in heraldic design

In medieval heraldry, color was not arbitrary. Specific rules and meanings were applied. The most important was the ‘rule of tincture,’ which dictated that a ‘metal’ (Or/gold/yellow and Argent/silver/white) should not be placed on another metal, and a ‘colour’ (like Gules/red, Azure/blue, Sable/black) should not be placed on another colour. This ensured that designs were high-contrast and easily visible from a distance.

When choosing your enamel colors, consider their traditional meanings:

  • Gules (red): Warrior, martyr, military strength, magnanimity.
  • Argent (white/silver): Peace, sincerity, innocence.
  • Or (gold/yellow): Generosity, elevation of the mind.
  • Sable (black): Constancy, grief. The black and white banner of the Templars (the Beauseant) was famously divided ‘per fess’ sable and argent.
  • Azure (blue): Truth, loyalty.

Adhering to these principles will lend an authentic feel to your Crusader pin design.

Technical considerations for a cloisonné design

The physical process of creating cloisonné imposes certain limitations that you must respect in your design. Simplicity and clarity are key.

  • Bold lines: Cloisonné is not suited for photorealism or subtle gradients. It excels at rendering bold, graphic images with distinct areas of color. Think stained glass, not oil painting.
  • Line thickness: Remember that every line in your design will be a physical metal wire. These wires have a minimum thickness, so tiny, intricate details may be lost or merge together.
  • Color separation: Every distinct color must be separated by a metal wall. This is the essence of the art form. Plan your design accordingly.
  • Metal plating: The visible metal wires and the back of the pin will be plated. Common choices include gold, silver, bronze, or black nickel. A gold or bronze plating can give a warm, ancient feel, while silver or black nickel offers a more stark, modern look.

The cloisonné creation process step-by-step: forging history in fire

Once your design is finalized and sent to a manufacturer, it begins a journey through fire and artistry. Understanding these steps will deepen your appreciation for the final product.

  1. The die and stamp: Your design is first used to create a steel die. This die is used to stamp the basic shape and primary outlines of your pin onto a sheet of base metal, usually copper.
  2. Bending the wires: This is the most skillful part. Artisans meticulously bend fine ribbons of metal wire by hand, shaping them to match every detail of your design. These wires are then carefully placed and fused onto the stamped base.
  3. Applying the enamel paste: The artist prepares the glass enamel, which looks like fine sand. It is mixed into a paste and carefully applied into each cell with a small spatula or brush. Each color is filled in its designated area.
  4. The firing: The pin is placed in a kiln and heated to a blistering temperature. The glass paste liquefies, flows to fill the cell, and fuses permanently with the metal base and wire walls. This process may be repeated multiple times, as different colored glasses can have different melting points.
  5. Stoning and polishing: After firing, the surface is rough and uneven. The pin is ground down with a whetstone and water to make the surface of the glass perfectly flush with the metal wires. This is followed by a series of polishing steps to bring out the brilliant, smooth, and glossy final finish.
  6. Plating and finishing touches: The entire pin is electroplated with your chosen metal (gold, silver, etc.). Finally, the backing clutch (e.g., a butterfly clutch or deluxe clasp) is soldered onto the back.

Finding a manufacturer vs. a DIY approach: your path to creation

For true, fired-glass cloisonné, working with a professional manufacturer is the only practical option. The process requires a high-temperature kiln, specialized materials, and immense skill. When searching for a company, look for those that explicitly offer “true cloisonné” or “hard-fired glass enamel,” not just “hard enamel.” Ask to see samples of their work and be prepared for higher costs and longer production times compared to other pin types. The investment, however, is reflected in the unparalleled quality of the final piece.

While a DIY approach to true cloisonné is not feasible for most, hobbyists can explore “cold enamel” or resin-based kits that mimic the look. These can be a fun way to create a custom design at home, but it’s important to understand that the result will not have the durability, vibrancy, or authentic feel of fired glass.

Wearing your Crusader pin with pride: a modern statement of a timeless code

Your custom Crusader cloisonné pin is finally in your hands. It feels substantial, smooth, and cool to the touch. The colors are deep and luminous, catching the light like a small jewel. This is more than a mere accessory. Worn on the lapel of a jacket, as a tie tack, or affixed to the cloak of a reenactment uniform, it becomes a point of connection. It is a conversation starter, a subtle signifier of your interest in history, and a personal reminder of the chivalric virtues—courage, faith, and honor—that have inspired legends for a millennium. In every stitch of a Templar uniform, there is a story. In every cell of a cloisonné pin, there is a spark of fire from an ancient craft, ready to tell yours.

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