How to tailor a custom Templar tabard: a complete pattern and fit guide

The heart of the uniform: embracing the iconic Templar tabard

The white tabard, emblazoned with its stark crimson cross, is more than just a piece of clothing; it is the most recognizable symbol of the Knights Templar. Worn over chainmail or a gambeson, this simple garment declared a knight’s allegiance, his piety, and his readiness for battle. It distinguished friend from foe in the chaos of a crusade and represented the purity of the Order’s mission. To wear one was to carry the weight of a sacred vow.

For the modern historian, reenactor, or enthusiast, creating a Templar tabard is a deeply rewarding project. It’s an act of connection to the past, a way to physically manifest a fascination with this legendary order. A store-bought costume can never compare to a garment crafted with your own hands, measured to your own form, and imbued with your own passion for history. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from selecting the right materials to drafting a custom pattern and achieving the perfect historical fit. Let’s unveil the legend, one stitch at a time.

Before you begin: gathering your materials and tools

A well-made garment begins with quality materials. While we can’t source our fabrics from a 12th-century marketplace, we can make historically informed choices that honor the spirit and function of the original attire. Before you cut a single thread, assemble everything you will need for this noble undertaking.

Choosing the right fabric: a balance of authenticity and practicality

The historical Templar tabard, or surcoat, was a practical piece of military equipment. It needed to be durable, breathable, and offer protection from the sun’s glare on metal armor. Your choice of fabric will be the single most important decision you make.

  • Wool: This is arguably the most historically accurate choice. Medieval wool was a versatile fabric, available in various weights. A medium-weight, fulled wool would be durable, naturally water-resistant, and would drape beautifully. For knights, a creamy white or off-white wool is essential. For sergeants or other members of the order, black or brown would be appropriate.
  • Linen: Another excellent and historically sound option, especially for warmer climates or for a lighter-weight garment. Linen is strong, breathes well, and softens with age. A heavy-weight linen can provide a similar drape to a light wool.
  • Cotton Canvas or Twill: While less historically accurate for the High Middle Ages, a heavy cotton twill or canvas is a fantastic modern alternative. It’s affordable, incredibly durable, easy to work with, and holds its shape well. It’s a great choice for a first project or for a tabard intended for rigorous use.

We recommend purchasing at least 3 to 4 yards (or meters) of fabric with a width of at least 55 inches (140 cm) to be safe. It’s always better to have too much than too little. And remember to pre-wash your fabric to prevent any shrinkage after your tabard is complete!

The iconic Templar cross: the symbol of martyrdom

The red cross, or cross pattée, was granted to the Templars by Pope Eugenius III in 1147. It symbolized their willingness to shed blood for their faith. For your tabard, you’ll need red fabric for the cross. Red wool or felt is the best choice, as it won’t fray easily and provides a rich, textured contrast to the main garment.

Essential tools of the trade

You don’t need a professional tailor’s workshop, but a few key tools will make the process smooth and enjoyable.

  • Large paper for pattern drafting (wrapping paper, butcher paper, or even old bedsheets work well)
  • Measuring tape
  • Yardstick or long ruler
  • Fabric scissors (sharp ones!)
  • Pins
  • Fabric chalk or a disappearing ink marker
  • Thread (choose a color that matches your main fabric, and a red for the cross)
  • Sewing machine (optional, but highly recommended for strong seams)
  • Hand-sewing needles (for finishing touches and attaching the cross)
  • Iron and ironing board

Step 1: taking your measurements with precision

The difference between a generic costume and a custom-tailored garment lies in the measurements. A tabard is a simple shape, but a perfect fit will make it look powerful and authentic. For the most accurate results, take these measurements while wearing the clothing you intend to have on underneath your tabard, such as a gambeson or thick tunic.

  1. Total Length: Measure from the top of your shoulder, down over your chest, to your desired hemline. A traditional tabard falls somewhere between the knee and mid-calf. This length prevents it from getting tangled in your legs during movement.
  2. Widest Circumference: Measure around the widest part of your torso. This could be your chest, waist, or hips, especially if you’re wearing armor or padding. This is the most crucial measurement for determining the tabard’s width.

Jot these numbers down. We will use them to draft a pattern that is uniquely yours.

Step 2: drafting your custom Templar tabard pattern

At its core, a tabard is two large rectangular panels of fabric joined at the shoulders. We will draft one pattern piece that will be used to cut both the front and back of your garment.

Calculating your panel width

This is where we ensure the tabard has enough room for movement. A restrictive tabard is both uncomfortable and historically inaccurate. Use the following formula:

(Your Widest Circumference ÷ 2) + 6 inches (15 cm) = Your Panel Width

The extra 6 inches adds 3 inches of ‘ease’ to each side, allowing the garment to drape properly over your underlayers and not cling. For example, if your widest measurement was 48 inches: (48 ÷ 2) + 6 = 30 inches. Your fabric panels will each be 30 inches wide.

Drawing the pattern

On your large pattern paper, draw a large rectangle. The length should be your Total Length measurement, and the width should be your calculated Panel Width.

Creating the neck opening

This is what turns two pieces of fabric into a wearable garment. Find the center of the top edge of your pattern rectangle. From this center point, we’ll create the opening.

  • For the back of the neck: Measure 4 inches (10 cm) out from the center along the top edge on each side. From the center point, measure 1.5 inches (4 cm) down. Draw a gentle, shallow curve connecting these three points. This will be the back neckline.
  • For the front of the neck: From the same center point, measure 4 inches (10 cm) down. Draw a deeper, more pronounced curve connecting this point to the same side points as the back neckline.

You should now have two curves drawn. When you cut your fabric, you will use the shallow curve for your back panel and the deeper curve for your front panel. For added authenticity and ease of putting it on, you can also mark a 3-4 inch vertical slit down from the center of the front neckline.

Step 3: cutting and sewing your tabard

With your pattern ready, the real work begins. Lay your pre-washed fabric out flat, folding it in half so the selvage edges meet. Place your pattern piece on top, pin it securely, and let’s bring this garment to life.

Lay out and cut the fabric

  1. Pin your pattern to your doubled-up fabric.
  2. First, cut out the entire rectangle and the shallow (back) neckline on both layers of fabric.
  3. Remove the pattern. Separate the two pieces of fabric. Designate one as the back panel.
  4. On the remaining piece (the front panel), re-pin the pattern and carefully cut the deeper front neckline. You should now have a distinct front and back piece.

Assembling the main body

With right sides of the fabric facing each other, line up the front and back panels at the shoulders. Pin the shoulder seams securely. Using a sewing machine with a straight stitch (and about a 1/2 inch or 1.5 cm seam allowance), sew these two seams. Press the seams open with an iron for a crisp, flat finish.

Finishing the edges

An unhemmed garment will fray and fall apart. Finishing your edges is vital for longevity. For the bottom hem and the two open sides, simply fold the raw edge over by 1/2 inch, press with an iron, then fold it over again by another 1/2 inch to conceal the raw edge. Pin and sew this hem all the way around.

The neckline is curved, so a simple hem is tricky. The best method is to use bias tape (which you can buy or make from your fabric scraps) to create a clean, professional-looking finish. If you marked a keyhole slit at the front, be sure to finish its edges carefully as well.

Step 4: adding the Templar cross

Your tabard is now a blank canvas. It is the cross that gives it its soul. Tradition dictates the cross is worn over the heart, on the left side of the chest.

Placement and proportion

A good size for the cross is typically between 8 and 10 inches (20-25 cm) tall and wide. You can draw a cross pattée pattern on paper first to get the proportions right before cutting it from your red felt or wool. Place the cross on the left side of the chest, positioning it so it looks balanced when worn. Pin it carefully in place.

Application method: appliqué

The most durable and authentic method is to appliqué the cross. Using a matching red thread and a hand-sewing needle, sew the cross onto the tabard using a simple whipstitch or a more decorative blanket stitch around the entire perimeter. This takes patience, but the result is a beautiful, textured symbol that stands out proudly.

Achieving the perfect fit: adjustments and styling

Try on your completed tabard. The beauty of this simple design is its versatility. The key to the classic Templar silhouette is a simple leather belt. Cinch the tabard at your natural waist, allowing the fabric to blouse slightly over the belt. This not only looks correct but also keeps the fabric from flapping around and interfering with your movement.

The open sides provide excellent freedom of movement, essential for combat or any physical activity. If you prefer more coverage, you can sew the side seams up from the bottom hem to about your waist, leaving the top open for your arms. This is a common modification seen in modern reenactment for practicality.

Beyond the stitch: wearing your legacy

You have done more than just sew fabric together. You have engaged in an act of historical recreation, creating a garment that speaks of faith, duty, and a legendary chapter in world history. Every time you don this tabard, you are connecting with that legacy. It’s a powerful feeling that no off-the-shelf costume could ever provide.

Whether for display, reenactment, or personal study, your custom-tailored Templar tabard is a testament to your dedication and skill. Now, girded in a garment of your own making, you are ready to carry the legend forward.

Have you crafted your own Templar attire? Share your creations, tips, or questions in the comments below!

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