More than a costume: reinforcing your templar tabard for events
The Knight Templar tabard is more than just a piece of clothing; it is a symbol of faith, martial prowess, and a legendary chapter in history. For the modern enthusiast, reenactor, or member of a chivalric order, this garment is the centerpiece of your attire. When you don its iconic white field and crimson cross, you carry the weight of that legacy. But the reality of wearing it to events—be it a bustling medieval faire, a rigorous historical reenactment, or a formal chapter meeting—is that it faces modern stresses. The wear and tear of movement, the weight of armor, and repeated use can quickly turn a magnificent symbol into a frayed garment. This is why understanding how to reinforce your tabard isn’t just a matter of sewing; it’s an act of preservation, ensuring the legend you represent remains pristine and powerful through every campaign.
Understanding the tabard’s historical weak points
Before we can properly reinforce a garment, we must first understand its construction and inherent vulnerabilities, both historically and in the context of modern use. The original Templar tabards, or surcoats, were simple but functional. Typically made of wool, a remarkably durable and weather-resistant natural fiber, they were designed to be worn over armor. This primary function dictated their shape: a basic tunic, often with slits in the front, back, and sides to allow for mounted combat and unrestricted movement. While these garments were built for the rigors of a military campaign, they were also subject to constant stress. The same points of failure from the 12th century are the ones we must fortify today.
The primary stress zones
Identifying the areas most likely to fail is the first step in creating a tabard that will last for years. By focusing your efforts on these zones, you can preemptively solve problems before they even begin.
- The shoulder seams: This is arguably the most critical stress point. When worn over mail or plate armor, the entire weight of the tabard hangs from the shoulders. The sharp edges of pauldrons or the abrasive texture of chainmail can saw through thread and fabric over time. Constant arm movement further strains these seams, leading to tears and separation.
- The neckline (collar): The neckline is constantly pulled and stretched as you don and doff the tabard, especially when fitting it over a helmet or mail coif. The fabric here is prone to fraying, and if the opening is too tight, the seam can rip under pressure. Sweat and oils from the skin can also weaken the fibers in this area over extended use.
- Arm openings (if applicable): For tabards with more defined armholes rather than open sides, these openings face similar stresses to the neckline. The constant motion of the arms can pull at the seams, causing them to pucker or tear.
- The top of the slits: The slits at the front, back, and sides are essential for mobility. However, the point where the slit ends and the solid seam begins is an extreme stress point. Any sudden movement, like mounting a horse, kneeling, or even just taking a wide step, can cause a small tear that will quickly travel up the seam.
- The hemline: While less of a structural failure point, the hem is the part of the tabard that interacts most with the environment. It can get caught on brush, stepped on, or dragged through mud and dirt. A poorly finished hem will unravel and fray, giving the entire garment a tattered and unkempt appearance.
Historically, these garments were maintained by squires or servants who would perform constant repairs. For the modern wearer, a proactive approach to reinforcement is a far more effective strategy. By building strength into these key areas from the start, you honor the tabard’s purpose and ensure its presentation remains worthy of the order it represents.
Essential reinforcing techniques for longevity
Once you’ve identified the tabard’s weak points, you can begin applying practical techniques to strengthen them. These methods range from simple stitching choices to adding structural components. While some techniques use modern materials, they can be applied in such a way that they remain invisible, preserving the historical aesthetic of your attire. The goal is to build a garment that looks authentic but wears with the resilience demanded by modern events.
Stitching and seam fortification
The foundation of a durable garment is in its seams. Using the right stitch and thread can make the difference between a tabard that lasts one season and one that lasts a decade.
- Use high-quality thread: Forget standard cotton sewing thread. Opt for a heavy-duty polyester, a linen thread, or a gutermann topstitching thread. These are significantly stronger and more resistant to abrasion and rot from moisture. Linen thread offers the most historically accurate option and is incredibly strong.
- Double-stitch critical seams: At a minimum, the shoulder seams and any side seams should be stitched twice. A simple way to do this is to sew the seam once, then sew a second line of stitching about 1/8th of an inch inside the first, within the seam allowance.
- Consider the flat-felled seam: For ultimate durability, especially on the shoulders, the flat-felled seam is unparalleled. This is the same type of seam you see on the sides of denim jeans. It involves encasing the raw edge of the fabric within the seam itself and topstitching it down. This creates a robust, low-profile seam that is incredibly resistant to pulling apart. While more time-consuming, it is a period-accurate technique that provides immense strength.
Adding structural support
Sometimes, the fabric itself needs help. Adding extra layers in high-stress areas distributes the load and prevents the base material from tearing.
- Facing the neckline and armholes: A facing is a separate piece of fabric sewn to the inside edge of an opening. Adding a linen or sturdy cotton facing to the neckline and armholes provides a crucial second layer. This prevents the outer wool from stretching and fraying, and it takes the brunt of the friction from armor or undergarments.
- Reinforce the slits with bar tacks: This is the single most important reinforcement for the tops of the slits. A bar tack is a series of tight, overlapping stitches (often a zigzag stitch on a machine or a dense whipstitch by hand) that creates a ‘bar’ of thread. Placing a half-inch bar tack at the very top of each slit, perpendicular to the seam, will stop tears before they can start. You can also sew a small, inconspicuous patch of leather or canvas on the inside of the garment at this point before creating the bar tack for even greater strength.
- Lining and interlining: A full or partial lining adds significant structure and durability to the entire tabard. A linen lining will help the garment hold its shape and provides an extra layer of protection between your armor and the outer wool. For the Templar cross itself, especially if it is appliqued, consider using a lightweight fusible interfacing on the back of the cross fabric before sewing it on. This will prevent the edges from fraying and stop the cross from puckering after washing or during wear.
Material choices and post-event care
The long-term survival of your Templar tabard begins before the first stitch is even made and continues long after the event has ended. The materials you choose and the care you provide are just as crucial as the reinforcement techniques you employ. A well-made tabard from inferior fabric will fail, and a well-made tabard that is poorly maintained will degrade. Marrying quality construction with smart material selection and diligent care is the key to a truly lasting piece of legendary attire.
Selecting the right foundation
While historical accuracy is paramount, we have access to a wider range of materials and knowledge about their properties. Making an informed choice is vital.
- Fabric: Wool is the most historically accurate and practical choice. It is naturally durable, water-resistant, flame-retardant, and breathes well. Look for a medium-weight, tightly woven wool. A heavier wool broadcloth or melton wool will be exceptionally durable. Linen is another excellent, period-accurate choice, especially for hotter climates, though it wrinkles more easily. Avoid pure synthetics like polyester, as they do not breathe, can look inauthentic, and may even melt near a campfire. If you must use a blend for budget reasons, ensure it has a high percentage of natural fiber.
- The Cross: The iconic red cross is often made from a different material. Felt is a common choice, but it can pill and wear poorly. A better option is to use a red wool fabric, cut carefully and appliqued onto the tabard. This method, where the edges of the cross are turned under and stitched down, is far more durable than simply gluing or fusing it on.
The discipline of maintenance
Your duty to the tabard doesn’t end when you take it off. Proper cleaning and storage are non-negotiable for ensuring its longevity.
- Cleaning: Never throw a wool tabard in the washing machine. The heat and agitation will cause it to felt and shrink disastrously. For most dirt and grime acquired at an event, simply letting it dry completely and brushing it off with a stiff garment brush is sufficient. For specific stains, spot cleaning with a mild wool-safe detergent and cold water is the best approach. If the entire garment needs a deep clean, hand-washing in a tub of cold water with a proper wool wash, followed by gently squeezing out the excess water (never wring it) and laying it flat to dry on towels, is the only safe method. Airing the garment out after each use is also crucial to prevent odors from setting in.
- Inspection and repair: After every event, perform a thorough inspection. Look closely at the high-stress zones we’ve discussed: the shoulders, neckline, and slit tops. Catching a single broken thread or a tiny tear and fixing it immediately with a needle and matching thread will prevent a catastrophic failure at your next outing.
- Storage: Do not store your tabard folded in a drawer for long periods. This creates sharp creases that can weaken the fabric fibers over time. The best method is to hang it on a wide, padded hanger that can support its weight without creating points on the shoulders. If you must store it flat, roll it gently around a tube to prevent creasing. Ensure it is stored in a dry, dark place to prevent moth damage and sun-fading.
By treating your tabard not as a simple costume but as a piece of significant historical equipment, you adopt the mindset necessary for its preservation. Careful selection of materials, combined with a disciplined regimen of care and maintenance, will ensure that your symbol of the order remains as strong and inspiring as the legends that birthed it.