Modern chivalry: 5 long-sleeve fits every knight should own
Foundational Layers: The Tunic and the Surcoat
The journey of a knight begins with a strong foundation, not only in principle but in presence. In the modern world, your wardrobe serves as your initial statement, a silent declaration of your values. The principles of the Knights Templar—discipline, purpose, and unwavering resolve—can be woven into the very fabric of the clothes we choose. It begins with the most fundamental layers, pieces that are both historically significant and profoundly practical for the man of today.
1. The Enduring Linen Tunic & Its Heir, The Henley
Long before it was a symbol of casual weekend style, the simple, long-sleeved shirt was a foundational garment for warriors and laymen alike. For a knight, the tunic, often crafted from humble yet resilient linen, was the first layer worn against the skin. It was a barrier, not just against the chafing of leather and mail, but against the elements. It was breathable in the searing heat of the Outremer and provided a base layer of warmth on a cold watch.
Today, the direct descendant of this essential piece is the high-quality Henley. Forget the flimsy, mass-produced versions; we speak of a garment with substance. Seek out a long-sleeve Henley made from a substantial-weight cotton, a linen blend, or even a soft merino wool. The defining feature—the buttoned placket—harks back to a time of functional simplicity, allowing for ventilation when the day’s ‘battle’ heats up.
How to wear it: A modern knight wears his Henley not as an afterthought, but as a deliberate choice. In neutral, earthy tones—ivory, stone, slate grey, or olive—it stands alone with quiet confidence. Paired with dark denim or rugged chinos, it speaks of a man who values comfort without sacrificing form. Layer it under a field jacket or overshirt, and it becomes the steadfast core of a thoughtful, resilient ensemble. It’s a testament to the idea that true strength doesn’t always need to shout.
2. The Protective Wool Surcoat, Reimagined as an Overshirt
The image of a Knight Templar is incomplete without the iconic white surcoat, emblazoned with the stark red cross. This garment served multiple purposes. It protected the knight’s precious chainmail from the relentless sun and rain, preventing rust. It served as a uniform, identifying brother to brother on a chaotic battlefield. Most importantly, it was a symbol—a wearable declaration of faith and allegiance.
How does this translate to the modern man’s wardrobe? The answer lies in the wool overshirt or the chore coat. This is not just a shirt, but a distinct outer layer. It functions as a lightweight jacket, providing protection, structure, and a powerful silhouette. A well-made overshirt in a heavy wool, thick-gauge cotton twill, or waxed canvas is the modern surcoat. It’s a piece you put on to face the world.
How to wear it: Choose a piece with a straight, slightly generous cut that allows you to wear it over a Henley or a sweater. Look for functionality: large pockets for carrying your modern necessities, and sturdy buttons that can be fastened against a cutting wind. In colors like navy, charcoal, or forest green, it projects an aura of capability and readiness. It’s the final piece of armor you don before stepping out the door, a silent symbol that you are prepared for whatever the day holds.
Forging Armor in Modern Textiles
A knight’s armor was his second skin, a marvel of articulated steel and leather designed for protection. While we no longer face lances and longswords, the modern world has its own assaults on the senses and spirit. Our ‘armor’ today is more subtle, found in the texture, weight, and quality of our clothing. It’s about choosing garments that make you feel not just covered, but fortified.
3. The ‘Chainmail’ Textured Knit Sweater
The intricate, interlocking rings of a hauberk of mail offered flexible, formidable protection. It was a substantial garment, its weight a constant reminder of the wearer’s duty. We can capture this essence—this feeling of protective substance—in a modern, textured knit sweater.
Think beyond the simple, flat-faced pullovers. We are talking about sweaters with a rich, three-dimensional texture that you can see and feel. Consider a classic Aran (or fisherman) sweater, with its complex cable patterns originally designed for durability and insulation. Or a waffle-knit or seed-stitch sweater, whose texture evokes the very pattern of mail. The key is the tactile experience. The weight of the wool or thick cotton provides a comforting, almost shield-like presence. It’s a garment that feels like a fortress.
How to wear it: This is a statement piece that requires little adornment. Worn over a simple t-shirt or a collared shirt, its texture does all the talking. Stick to strong, masculine colors that have a timeless feel: a deep navy, a rugged cream, a heathered charcoal, or a rich burgundy. This sweater is your defense against the encroaching cold and the flimsy trends of fast fashion. It signifies an appreciation for craftsmanship, heritage, and enduring strength.
4. The Rugged ‘Gambeson’ Field Jacket
Beneath the mail, every knight wore a gambeson—a thick, padded jacket stitched in vertical or diamond patterns. This crucial piece of equipment absorbed the shock of blows, preventing broken bones and severe bruising. It was the unsung hero of the knight’s defensive system: practical, durable, and utterly essential.
The spirit of the gambeson lives on in the modern field jacket or waxed cotton jacket. These are garments born from utility. The M-65 field jacket, for example, was designed for soldiers, with a tough exterior and unparalleled practicality. A waxed cotton jacket, like those favored by outdoorsmen for over a century, provides a formidable barrier against wind and rain. Many of these jackets feature quilted linings or are constructed from heavy-duty canvas, echoing the padded nature of their historical ancestor. Details like reinforced shoulder and elbow patches in leather or suede further enhance this connection to durable, functional wear.
How to wear it: This is your go-to outer layer for action. It’s the jacket you grab for a weekend in the country, a walk through the city on a stormy day, or any task that requires you to be prepared. Its inherent ruggedness pairs perfectly with other honest materials like denim, wool, and leather. A field jacket tells a story of a life lived, not just observed. It gathers character with every wear, every scuff, and every journey, becoming a testament to its owner’s resilience.
The Symbol of Purity and Modern Formality
The Knights Templar’s vows were central to their identity. Their white mantle was a powerful public symbol of the purity they sought, a representation of leaving a life of sin for a life of service. In our secular, complex world, the need for clarity, integrity, and self-respect remains. The final piece in a modern knight’s arsenal addresses the moments that require a higher level of formality and intention.
5. The Immaculate White Dress Shirt
In a sea of casual wear, the simple act of wearing a crisp, well-fitting white shirt has become a powerful statement. It is the modern equivalent of the Templar’s clean mantle. It signifies discipline, attention to detail, and respect—for the occasion, for others, and for oneself. This isn’t just any white shirt pulled from a plastic package; it is a carefully chosen garment that serves as the bedrock of a formal or professional ensemble.
To truly elevate this piece into the realm of chivalrous apparel, look beyond the standard. Consider a shirt made from superior fabric, such as a fine Egyptian cotton poplin or a crisp, breathable linen for warmer climes. Pay attention to the details. A structured collar that stands proudly, a clean French placket, and quality mother-of-pearl buttons all contribute to a garment of distinction. A subtle variation like a grandad or mandarin collar can also lend a hint of monastic or historical character, setting it apart from the mundane office uniform.
How to wear it: The power of the white shirt lies in its pristine simplicity. It is the ‘white space’ that allows other elements, such as a tailored jacket, a fine timepiece, or a silk tie, to stand out. It should be perfectly ironed and fit impeccably—not too tight, not too billowy. It is your armor for the boardroom, the formal event, the significant life milestones. Wearing it is a conscious decision to present the best version of yourself to the world, a symbol of clarity and purpose in a world that is often chaotic.
Ultimately, adopting the style of a modern knight is not about wearing a costume. It is about choosing clothing with intention. It’s about favoring quality over quantity, durability over disposability, and timeless style over fleeting trends. These five long-sleeve fits—the tunic, the surcoat, the chainmail knit, the gambeson jacket, and the white mantle shirt—are more than just clothes. They are archetypes, each representing a facet of the chivalrous ideal: foundation, protection, strength, readiness, and purity. By building your wardrobe around these principles, you create more than just a collection of garments; you forge a personal uniform that reflects the code you live by.