Your Templar legacy: a guide to designing an outfit that tells your story
The white mantle: more than a uniform, a narrative
The image is iconic: a knight cloaked in a white mantle, a stark red cross emblazoned over his heart. This wasn’t just a uniform; it was a declaration. The white symbolized the purity of their new monastic life, while the red cross represented their willingness to be martyrs. But within this uniformity, every stain, every repair, and every carefully chosen piece of kit told the personal story of the warrior who wore it. This is the spirit we tap into when we create our own Templar attire.
Creating a custom Crusader outfit is a deeply personal journey. It’s an exercise in historical reverence, artistic expression, and storytelling. It’s about crafting something that feels not like a costume, but like a piece of history you can inhabit. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from the first spark of an idea to the final, weathered stitch. We will explore how to ground your vision in history while infusing it with a unique character that is entirely your own.
Part 1: The foundation of your quest – research and inspiration
Before a single thread is chosen, the most crucial work begins: the work of the mind and the imagination. A compelling Templar outfit is built on a strong foundation of historical knowledge and a clear personal narrative.
Defining your knight’s story
Who are you? This is the first and most important question. The answer will inform every design choice you make. Don’t just think of a generic knight; create a character. Consider these questions to build your narrative:
- What is their rank and experience? A newly initiated brother’s surcoat would be pristine, while a veteran sergeant returning from Outremer might bear a tattered mantle, carefully mended but permanently stained by the dust of the Holy Land. A high-ranking commander might have a finer weave of wool or a more ornate belt buckle.
- Where are they from? A knight of French origin might have subtle stylistic differences in his gear compared to one from England or the Italian peninsula. These could manifest in the shape of a buckle, the style of his leather pouch, or even a small, personal trinket.
- What is their role? Are they a warrior on the front lines, a pilgrim protector, a treasurer, or a diplomat? A knight tasked with guarding pilgrims might carry different equipment and show different wear patterns on his clothing than one who spends his days in a commandery.
Answering these questions gives your project a soul. You are no longer just making a tunic; you are crafting the tunic of a specific individual with a history.
Grounding your vision in historical reality
While your story is personal, the world of the Knights Templar was real. Grounding your design in historical accuracy provides a powerful sense of authenticity. The core elements of a 12th or 13th-century Templar’s field attire were consistent:
- The Surcoat (or Tunic): Worn over the armour, this was the primary identifying garment. For knights, it was white with a red cross. For sergeants, it was typically black or brown with a red cross.
- The Mantle: The iconic heavy wool cloak, white for knights and black/brown for sergeants. This was worn over everything and offered protection from the elements.
- The Underpinnings: Beneath the armour lay a padded gambeson or arming doublet, and beneath that, a simple linen undertunic (chemise) and braies (trousers).
- Headwear: A linen coif was often worn under the maille coif and helmet.
Dive into historical sources. Look at manuscript illuminations like the Morgan Bible, study stone effigies of knights in English and French churches, and read descriptions from chronicles. These are your primary blueprints.
Part 2: The blueprint – sketching your Templar vision
With a story in mind and historical references at hand, it’s time to bring your vision to life on paper. You don’t need to be a professional artist; the goal is to create a functional blueprint for your project.
Putting pencil to paper
Start with a simple outline of a human figure. Begin layering the garments as they would be worn in real life. First, the padded gambeson. Then, the maille hauberk. Over that, the surcoat. Finally, the belt and the mantle. This helps you understand how the different layers will interact and drape.
Focus on the silhouette. Is it the flowing, A-line shape of the early 13th century, or the slightly more fitted style seen later? How long is the surcoat? A split in the front and back for riding is a crucial detail.
Detailing the story in stitches and stains
This is where your character’s narrative becomes visible. Your sketch is the place to plan these details:
- The Cross: Is it a simple, straight-armed cross or the flared Cross Pattée? Is it sewn on perfectly, or is one arm slightly askew from a field repair? Plan its size and placement on the surcoat and mantle.
- Wear and Tear: Mark areas for weathering. The hem of the mantle and surcoat would be dirty and frayed from travel. Knees might be stained with earth. The sword-side hip might show more wear on the surcoat from the constant rubbing of the scabbard. Plan a few small, mended tears to suggest a life of hardship.
- Personal Touches: Could there be a small, crudely embroidered symbol on the inside of the mantle—a reminder of home? Perhaps the leather of the belt is nicked and scarred from a close call in battle. These subtle details make the outfit uniquely yours.
Part 3: The raw materials – choosing fabric and hardware
The feel and drape of your garments are determined by the materials you choose. Selecting the right textiles is crucial for achieving an authentic and impressive look.
The fabric of history
For historical accuracy, natural fibers are king. The primary fabrics of the era were wool and linen.
- Wool: This was the workhorse fabric of the Middle Ages. For the mantle, a heavy, thick wool will give it the right weight and protective quality. For the surcoat, a medium-weight wool tabby or twill weave is ideal. It’s durable and drapes beautifully over armour.
- Linen: Used for everything unseen. The coif, the undertunic, and the braies should be made from linen. It’s breathable, comfortable against the skin, and historically correct.
- Modern Alternatives: If budget or availability is an issue, a heavy cotton canvas can substitute for a wool surcoat, and a wool blend can work for the mantle. The key is to avoid shiny, synthetic-looking fabrics. Choose materials with a natural texture and drape.
When it comes to colour, stick to the Templar Rule. A pure, off-white for the knight’s mantle and surcoat, and a deep black or dark brown for a sergeant. The red for the cross should be a rich, brick or blood red, not a bright, modern scarlet.
Beneath the cloth: armour and underpinnings
The cloth garments are designed to be worn over armour. The maille hauberk (chainmail shirt) provides the essential shape and bulk underneath the surcoat. A padded gambeson is non-negotiable; it protects the body from the armour, absorbs impact, and makes wearing maille comfortable. When designing your cloth layers, always remember to account for the bulk of the armour and padding underneath. Your surcoat pattern needs to be much larger than your regular shirt size.
Part 4: The creation – from pattern to product
With your design finalized and materials gathered, the construction begins. This is where your vision becomes a tangible reality, stitch by stitch.
Drafting your patterns
The T-tunic construction of the High Middle Ages is beautifully simple. The basic surcoat is made from rectangles and triangles (gores) to add fullness. You can find many historical patterns online or in books. The most important step is to create a mock-up, or a “toile,” using cheap fabric like an old bedsheet. This allows you to check the fit over your armour and padding before you ever cut into your expensive wool.
The art of the seam
You have two choices for construction: machine-stitching or hand-stitching.
- Machine-Stitching: Fast and strong. You can build the entire garment quickly. For a touch of authenticity, you can machine-sew the internal seams and then go back and hand-sew the visible hems and finishing details.
- Hand-Stitching: The ultimate in authenticity. Using a simple running stitch or a sturdier backstitch with linen thread will give your creation a look and feel that cannot be replicated by a machine. It’s a slow, meditative process that connects you more deeply with the garment you’re making.
Applying the Templar cross
The cross is the focal point. The most common historical method was appliqué. Cut the cross shape from your red wool or felt. You can either turn the edges under for a clean look or leave them raw for a more rugged feel. Pin it carefully in place over the heart on the surcoat and on the left shoulder of the mantle. Use a simple whipstitch around the edges with a matching red thread to secure it.
Part 5: The final touches – weathering and accessories
A brand-new, perfectly clean Templar outfit looks like a costume. A weathered, lived-in outfit looks like a piece of history. This final stage is what truly brings your character to life.
A life lived: aging and weathering
Weathering should tell the story you created in step one. It’s about subtlety and purpose.
- Staining: A weak tea or coffee bath can give the entire white garment a slightly aged, off-white tone. Use watered-down acrylic paints (browns, greys, blacks) on a rag or sponge to create realistic dirt stains along the hem, knees, and elbows.
- Fraying: Lightly take a wire brush or sandpaper to the hem and cuffs to simulate natural wear and tear.
- Repairs: Add a few patch repairs using a slightly different shade of thread or a small piece of scrap fabric. This shows a garment that was valued and maintained on long campaigns.
Remember, less is more. Build up your weathering effects in light layers until it looks right.
Accessorizing your knight
The final details complete the picture. A wide leather belt is essential, not just for holding up your sword, but for carrying the necessities of a knight’s life. Add a simple leather pouch, a waterskin, and a eating knife. Simple leather turn-shoes or boots are a must. A string of wooden prayer beads tucked into the belt or a pilgrim’s badge sewn onto a pouch adds immense character and depth to your story.
Conclusion: wear your story with pride
From the initial spark of a character concept, through the careful research and design, the selection of materials, and the final stitches and stains, you have done more than just make a Templar uniform. You have created a narrative woven from cloth and thread. You have built a bridge to the past.
When you finally don your custom-made surcoat and mantle, you are not just wearing a costume. You are wearing a story—your story. It is a testament to your creativity, your respect for history, and the enduring legend of the Knights Templar. Unveil your legend in every stitch.